A garden on an exposed coast is not simply a garden with a nicer view. Salt-laden wind scours leaves, dries buds and burns tender growth, while the soil behind a sea wall or dune is often thin, free-draining and hungry. Add the glare and heat reflected off water, and you have conditions that finish off a great many plants sold as "hardy".
Gardening by the water adds its own twist. Whether you look out over a harbour, a tidal creek or a garden pond a few hundred metres inland, you will be dealing with wind that carries salt and, in some places, occasional brackish spray. The good news is that a well-chosen group of herbaceous perennials will not merely survive these conditions — it will thrive, knitting together into a border that looks established and deliberate rather than battered.
Plants that cope with coastal exposure tend to share a set of useful features. Look for these when you are choosing at the nursery, and you will rarely go far wrong.
Many of these plants originated on shingle beaches and cliff tops, so they are also adapted to drought, poor fertility and full sun. That combination is exactly what an exposed seaside border offers.
The front of a coastal border takes the worst of the salt, so plant it with the toughest, lowest growers. Sea thrift (Armeria maritima) is the obvious starting point: tight evergreen cushions studded with pink or white pom-poms in late spring, and utterly indifferent to wind. Sea campion (Silene uniflora) spills white flowers over shingle and gravel, and looks entirely at home next to paving.
For scent and bee value, thyme and dianthus are hard to beat, provided they have sharp drainage. Add Erigeron karvinskianus for a long season of small daisies that seeds itself gently into crevices, and Sedum spectabile for flat heads of pink that hold their shape into autumn and turn bronze with the first cold nights. In a gravel mulch, this combination needs almost no attention.
Once you move back from the front, you can afford slightly more generous plants. Sea holly (Eryngium) is the essential coastal perennial: spiny, metallic-blue and architectural, with a taproot that resents being moved but shrugs off salt and drought. Sea kale (Crambe maritima) brings bold, glaucous foliage and clouds of white flowers in early summer, followed by seed pods that rattle in the wind.
Sea lavender (Limonium) is invaluable for late colour, its papery sprays lasting for weeks and drying well for indoor arrangements. Behind them, try Kniphofia for pokers in orange and cream, Crocosmia for late-summer fire, and Verbena bonariensis for airy purple heads on stiff, wind-resistant stems. Perovskia and Nepeta both give grey foliage and blue flowers, and both appreciate the baking a south-facing coastal border provides.
A pond, stream or rill near the coast needs a little more thought than one inland. Salt drift will settle on the surface and on emergent foliage, and in some gardens tidal water can make the supply faintly brackish. Keep marginals to the tougher end of the range: iris, lychnis, Achillea ptarmica and marsh marigold will all cope with an occasional salty splash, though they will sulk if the water itself becomes strongly saline.
Site the pond so that a hedge, fence or bank takes the worst of the wind before it reaches the water; this reduces spray and keeps floating leaves from being blown to one end. Avoid feeding the pond or its margins with rich fertiliser, which will simply encourage algae, and never let garden runoff carry surplus nutrients into the water. A shallow pebble shelf at the edge is useful for both wildlife and planting, giving you a transition zone where damp-loving perennials can mingle with the water without sitting in it.
Establishment is everything on an exposed site. Plant in spring, when the soil is warming and roots can settle before winter gales arrive, and give each perennial a generous planting hole improved with garden compost. A gravel mulch over the surface will suppress weeds, keep foliage clean and stop sand blowing into the crowns.
Water new plants with fresh water through their first summer, and consider a temporary windbreak of netting or woven hurdles for the first season. Seaweed is a traditional coastal mulch and a mild, slow-release feed; use it sparingly and rinse it first if it is very fresh. Leave stems and seed heads standing over winter for structure and bird food, then cut back in early spring as new growth appears. Lift and divide crowded clumps every three or four years to keep them vigorous — and to give you free plants for the next stretch of windy border.
Learn how to submit useful butterfly records to local biodiversity projects and help monitor changing coastal populations through simple surveys.
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
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I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
ReplyEssential advice on checking tides, wearing suitable footwear and handling creatures gently during family rockpooling trips on British shores.
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